Fathom Favorites: The Amalfi Coast + Capri

The Fathom Favorites series is a special feature for paid subscribers to Way to Go, our Substack newsletter. A mix of tried and true, new and iconic, and unsung and beloved, think of these as concise cheat sheets and the best of a destination. You can see them all here or get them automatically with a subscription.

Are you one of the millions heading to the Amalfi Coast this year? (Us, too.) Don’t land in Naples without our essential guide for your dolce vita fantasy. A guide that will tell you:

• The adorable B&B worth it for the breakfast alone.
• The best spaghetti in Nerano. (Which is it?)
• The scenic coastal hike past olive groves and ancient ruins.
• A dreamscape inspired by the perfect garden.
• The restaurant famous for its pizza all’acqua — and its famous clientele.

If you prefer a day-by-day itinerary, you’ll want our new 3-Day Guide to the Amalfi Coast. It will go on sale soon but we’re sending it as a gift to all annual subscribers, along with our guides for Venice, Florence, and Rome.

The Amalfi Coast spans the Tyrrhenian Sea from Naples down to Salerno, though the sweet spot is the stretch between Sorrento and Amalfi. Yes, it can get very touristy and crowded. (Ciao, Positano.) But the Amalfi Coast is also a thriving, year-round community of proud and welcoming locals, artisans, and farmers. And it’s so beautiful — a magical area that bewitches with sea and scenery. Remember when Odysseus fell victim to the sirens’ song? He was cruising these waters. 

Now, how should you spend your time? That depends on your vacation dreams, but keep in mind that though distances between points seem close on the map (and they are, as gulls fly), the road (long, twisty, stunning) makes for slow going. Which means it might be a good idea to pick a base and stay close if you don’t want to waste hours of vacation days sitting in traffic. But do waste a day on a boat exploring the coastline — Li Galli islands, the fjord at Furore, the ancient Roman ruins at Marina di Crappola, and any other patch of beauty that catches your eye — stopping for a pasta feast on a beach. 

Here’s our cheat sheet from north (Sorrento) to south (Amalfi/Ravello).

Sorrento

Sorrento is better as a transportation hub than a destination. Too many tourists, cruise ships, chaos. Too bad, because when you strip that all away, it’s a beautiful town.

Stay
Maison la Minervetta Hotel — impeccable decor with a nautical vibe.
Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria — historic, grand hotel with acres of gardens.
Bellevue Syrene — for exuberant (read: over-the-top) luxury. 
Accademia 39 — charming, cozy, cool B&B in the center of town.
Palazzo Jannuzzi — a B&B worth it for the breakfast alone.

Eat + Drink
Casa Tua — cute and casual seafood spot.
L’Antica Trattoria — a step back in time with gracious service.
O’ Parrucchiano — classic cuisine in a charming lemon grove.
Il Buco — Sorrento’s first Michelin star; still going strong.
Pizzeria da Franco — a casual spot for a quick slice or a long pie. 
Bar Syrenuse — for coffee, cocktails, a quick lunch, and snacks.

Do + Shop
Quanto Basta — private and small group cooking classes.
Siniscalchi — handmade and custom sandals since 1950.
Mario Adario — if you forgot to pack your Brunello Cucinelli.
Pompeii + Herculaneum — the local train to Scavi leaves from Sorrento.

The Sorrentine Peninsula

The hordes rush from Sorrento to Positano, cutting off this jewel along the coastline. All the better for you to enjoy it!

Stay
Don Alfonso 1890 — an Italian dreamscape inspired by the garden.
Hotel Lo Scoglio — low-key, unplugged. The insider choice.
Relais Blu — modern and sleek, with an infinity pool with killer views.

Eat + Drink
Lo Scoglio da Tommaso — farm and sea to table. Our #1 favorite. 
Don Alfonso 1890 — excellent refined (and innovative) fine dining.
Le Sirenuse Mare — the stylish beach club the coast was missing.
Maria Grazia — rivals Lo Scoglio for best spaghetti Nerano.
Relais Blu — aperitivo and fine dining on a picturesque terrace.
La Conca del Sogno — better for the scene than the cuisine.

Do + Shop
Don Alfonso 1890 Cooking School — learn a different course every day.
Bay of Ieranto — hike the nature reserve to gorgeous swimming cove.
Punta Campanella — coastal trail past olive groves and Saracen ruins.
La Piccola Positano — custom-made sandals in Marina del Cantone.

See the whole guide — Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and Capri — at Way to Go.