Treat yourself to a beautifully composed picnic salad, hearty BLT, and crab cakes at this lovely lunchtime institution. Local chef-owner Garrett Wellins handwrites the daily menus and has been doing the locavore thing, without the label, for years. The slender parlor (his grandfather's former cigar-and-newspaper shop) is one part Parisian bistro (his mother's pastel portraits hang gallery style), one part beach retreat.