The room is a beautifully ostentatious showpiece, and everyone here acts like they're on display, too. The vibe is clubby and buzzy and very aren't-we-doing-well-for-ourselves, which is meant as high praise. The menu covers brasserie classics like steak frites, duck confit, a towers of oysters. If you forgot to make a reservation, you can snag a table in the cozy front room cafe.    

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