The Discrete Charm of Forte Dei Marmi
See you on the beach. Photo by Claudio Poggio / Unsplash.
In Forte dei Marmi and Pietrasanta along the sea in Tuscany, the locals outnumber the tourists and the streets are lined with art galleries.
FORTE DEI MARMI, Italy — Once known as the seaside getaway for Italian aristocracy, Forte dei Marmi — or simply Forte to locals, emphasis on the “for” — still remains relatively unspoiled and under the radar. (Or as under the radar as anything in Italy can be.) With a high concentration of art galleries, a solid beach club culture, and Michelin-star dining, it's easy to see why the jetset keeps summering here for a quiet luxury escape.
Lay of the Land
Forte dei Marmi is nestled on the northern Italian coast at the foot of the Apuan Alps between Florence and Cinque Terre; the neighboring marble-rich town of Pietrasanta is an easy, five-minute drive away. Many Florentines and Milanese own beach homes in Forte and visit year-round.
Where to Stay
Augustus Hotel is the spot for a regal, five-star experience. The spectacular neoclassical villa has been serving A-listers since the 1900s and was once the beach residence of the Agnelli family. Today the hotel, owned and run by the Maschietto family, has impressive private grounds that include the main hotel, seven private villas, and an underpass that connects to the sought-after Augustus Beach Club. The club has a heated saltwater pool, deluxe beachside suites with queen-sizes beds for hotel guests, sunbeds, and deck chairs. All-day drinks and dining service is courtesy of the beachside restaurant Bambaissa.
If sleek and modern design is more your vibe, Hotel Principe is your best bet. Set amid a garden estate, the cube-like building is softened by curved staircases and plush interiors by some of Italy’s top designers, among them Armani. The rooftop has killer views (go for aperitivo hour) but I didn’t love the Michelin-starred Luxe Lucis.
What to Do
Get a Bike
First things first: You need a bicycle. And not some modern, electric Lime bike. You’re here for the ‘70s charm of the town, so go for an old-school, pastel bicycle with a basket. Most hotels will have their own and/or will rent one for you.
Shop! (It’s Italy)
On Wednesdays and Sunday mornings, bike to the local market Mercato di Forte di Marmi for an excellent mix of high-quality Italian goods — cashmere, silks, linens, and leather accessories. Don’t miss the Pinotti Cashmere stand for amazing silk sets.
For a quick bite, grab a focaccia and cafe at da Valè while you stroll the quaint city center to see what’s on offer at the heavy-hitting luxury brands: Gucci, Prada, and Loro Piana are all here.
A.MA Luxury vintage is the spot for top-notch vintage — unique Birkins and old-school Pucci.
Visit Pietrasanta
Pietrasanta, famed for its fine white marble, has the highest concentration of art galleries per square meter in Italy. At Secci, I saw a show by South African contemporary artist Chris Soal, whose work incorporates unexpected materials like cement, bottle caps, and toothpicks. The whole town feels like an open-air museum, with large-scale installations featured throughout, and a stunning, 14th-century cathedral as the backdrop. This juxtaposition of avant garde artists against classic marble and frescos was striking and, in a word, wonderful.
Hit the Club. The Beach Club
Lounge beachside at one of the many pastel-colored bagni (beach clubs) so popular throughout the Med, like Bagno la Fenice. Order a fresh pasta and the local pinoli dai dai for dessert, the perfect bite-size treat for a hot summer's day.
Eat! (It’s Italy)
Ristorante Lorenzo, easily a favorite meal of the trip, is an iconic family-run restaurant that dates back to Belle Epoque era. Book for dinner and dress to impress.
Plan your Trip
How to Get There
The closest airports are Pisa and Florence, but if you are flying internationally your best bet is to fly into Milan and rent a car for the scenic, 2.5 hour road trip.
When to Go
The shoulder scene is the name of the game here. Late May/June is absolute perfection for weather and crowds, as is September/October. July/ August, no surprise, are the most packed.
Getting Around
To get around Forte dei Marmi a bicycle is your best friend, as parking is tricky in the narrow streets of the town center. If you are looking to venture to Pietrasanta and the neighboring towns, a rental car is your best bet, as taxis get tricky in the evening.