Enjoying the Fruits of Guerneville, California

Take a peek at this California town hugged by giant redwoods, sprawling grapevines, and the Sonoma coast. Fathom contributing editor Anna Petrow tastes and tells.

Readers familiar with my travels may know that a certain kind of magic pulls me back again and again to California’s wine country. Visits to Napa and Sonoma over the years have sparked my special relationship with this landscape and the winemakers who dare tame it. Over the years, historic town squares, quaint bed and breakfasts, farm stays, and beautifully designed modern digs have charmed me.

But nothing quite compares to Dawn Ranch.

As we pulled into the parking lot, towering redwoods dwarfed us, immediately slowing our pace. The grounds were simply stunning. Overgrown ferns spilled along pathways, making their way from one charming cedar shake cottage with a garden to a cluster of cabins ideal for friends and family. Our cabin was tucked away next to a spa where treatments included a forest bathing body scrub, a red light therapy sauna, outdoor wood bathtubs, and a relaxation room with giant windows set behind a deep velvet olive couch, perfect for curling up with a book and a cup of tea.

Our cabin, tucked behind the spa, had its own private outdoor tub and a fire pit. Inside were a mint tile-lined fireplace spilling welcome heat into the living room, kitchenette area, and s fluffy California king. I admit we did a fair bit of lounging there. Such is the magic of Dawn Ranch.

We went for a misty walk — past sprawling gardens, an in-progress saltwater pool, and expansive grounds for tents in warmer months — down to the river, mocha and croissants in hand from the clubhouse lounge. (I’ll have to return during the summer: I could almost hear the splashing and laughter from the boathouse where guests prepare to float down the Russian River.)

Venturing off ground, the property spills right onto Main Street and its charming blend of modern and vintage Americana restaurants and shops. Proudly LGBTQ+-owned businesses fly their flags in what has long been a celebrated queer-friendly destination (often hailed as the Fire Island of Northern California). We popped into an old-school five-and-dime for sunscreen and sundries, paid a visit to the old bank turned ice cream shop Nimble & Finn’s, devoured tacos from the Guerneville Taco Truck, and enjoyed a local brew with fish and chips and a river view at Stumptown Brewery. On our list for next time: Equality Vines for wine and Trillium Taproom for oysters.

Everyone knows that the agricultural history steeped into this land is astounding, and it was an honor to chat with local winemakers about farming low-intervention wines. During a visit to Joseph Swan Vineyards (all rolling hills and flitting goldfinches), I chatted with Rod Berglund — nicknamed the “Rodfather” for his immense influence on California’s love affair with pinot noir. At Ryme, we had a different type of experience nestled inside an unassuming barn behind a dirt parking lot. The tasting room was light and airy, with natural decor matching unique blends from rare, old-world grapes. On a sunny patio, with records playing softly in the background, Red Car Wine’s beloved rosé made for the perfect casual tasting experience. Wine enthusiasts in the know reach for their lesser-known chardonnays, which are quickly emerging as some of the best in the region.

We ended our trip with a meal at The Lodge at Dawn Ranch, a destination in itself. Chefs Juliana Thorpe and Ignacio Zuzulich wowed us with innovative preparations of our nation’s best produce. We feasted on tiny oysters with even tinier, tangy slices of kumquat, ricotta gnudi bathed in sunchoke cream, thousand-layer potatoes delicately cut with nori, and melt-in-your-mouth tuna topped with colorful edible flowers.

It was a weekend of indulgence — in nature, in nature’s finest fruits, in comfort I will happily return to again and again.