City Breaks

For a Much-Needed Dose of Vitamin D, Head to Sunny La Jolla

by Anna Petrow
La A little California sunshine will do after a long Midwestern winter. All photos by Anna Petrow.

After many (many!) months of wind, snow, and ice, this Midwesterner began to crave lazy strolls in the sun, bright citrusy sips, and fish tacos.  

When I couldn’t stand winter any longer, I booked flights for San Diego and set my sights on La Jolla. Visiting California as a tourist can often mean hours in the car navigating traffic, but this neighborhood offers a true respite from confined spaces, with plenty of places and patios to explore on foot. The La Jolla coastline is peppered with resorts, but I sought out something homier — a weekend stay to fulfill the delusion that I’m actually a Californian and winter is over forever!

Orli La Jolla is a secret garden villa perfect for such daydreams. The century-old landmark was originally built as a family home for George Kautz, a former lemon rancher. Designed by Iving Gill, who has twelve Southern California buildings on the National Register of Historic Places, and landscaped by botanist and horticulturalist Kate Sessions, best known as the “Mother of Balboa Park,” the inviting communal spaces are an homage to greenery.

Each room has a theme: A spacious suite called The Wing offers a record player for music lovers. The Nomad sleeps four social butterflies and has a Polaroid camera to capture the memories. The Nook has a cozy reading spot and a book collection. The Irving Gill Penthouse is an entire apartment unto its own, with sweeping rooftop ocean views that certainly inspired the original architect.

All of the rooms smell dreamy thanks to the custom Flamingo Estate toiletries, and every traveler gets to enjoy a complimentary stocked mini fridge (snacks, sparkling beverages, cooling sheet masks).

On the mornings and afternoons of my visit, I was thrilled to laze about the lush courtyard, listening to the trickling of the fountain and enjoying shade of olive trees. Kombucha and cold brew on tap quenched my thirst as the day warmed up and the call of the beach got me moving. Complimentary cruiser bikes at the hotel made for a leisurely way to explore the surrounding area.

Best of all, everything is nearby. Across the street, Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego appeals to art lovers and ocean enthusiasts alike, with floor to ceiling views of the water and a restaurant remarkably free of crazy prices and competitive reservations. Down below, one can stroll above the Children’s Pool, a protected sandy cove home to adult harbor seal moms and their pups. Walk in any direction along the bluffs or pop down to La Jolla Shores Beach, Shell Beach, Marine Street Beach, and Windansea Beach to dip your toes in the water.

Heading inland, I enthusiastically perused the produce at La Jolla Open Air Market like the Missourian I am — plump strawberries, juicy Meyer lemons, tart kumquats — the works! Il Giardino di Lilli down the block offered more garden hangs and flaky, fresh-from-the-oven croissants.

Of course, with all this walking, one works up an appetite. I had some of the best beans of my life at La Jollita, which has a lively atmosphere, flowing drinks, and beautifully spiced tacos. At La Corriente, the emphasis is on seafood like ceviches, oysters, octopus, and crispy shrimp tacos — fresh from the surrounding waters. The Whaling Bar serves a beautiful cocktail and shareable plates for an intimate happy hour or dinner.

La Jolla certainly caters to vacationers prone to a lingering lunch, so quick eats are less abundant, but Raymundo’s Taco Shop offers authentic fish tacos in mere minutes for those fresh off the beach (or a park picnic blanket) and starving for a snack. Blue Whale, tucked away in a little bungalow, serves iced coffees and creamy matchas alongside breakfast burritos, ube pancakes, and poke bowls. Day or night, Bobboi Gelato is scooping as fast as they can to satisfy ice cream cravings. And don’t let a line deter you. The pistachio is worth the wait.

Locals and tourists alike seem to have gotten the same memo: La Jolla is a place to stroll around, slow down, and soak up the good rays of sunshine.

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