A Not So Obvious Guide to Sicily, Part 2: Palermo

More from the Italian-est part of Italy. If you missed it, catch up on Our Not So Obvious Guide to Sicily, Part 1 for the best of the beach, stories for the screen and the page, and products to transport you.

I’ve been going to Italy since I was a baby, but until last year, I had never made it to Sicily. Not for lack of trying: I planned my first trip there when I was 23, but abandoned it when I met a guy in Bologna. (He was hot, and we’re still friends.) Over the years, I found other lame excuses to go everywhere except Sicily, even as I knew I was missing out.

When I finally made it to Sicily for the first time, I started it right, by checking into a beautiful corner room with a view at Villa Igiea on the Gulf of Palermo. Like so many of my favorite Italian hotels, it occupies a former 19th-century palazzo that was belonged to the prominent Florio family, who used to entertain a global jet-set of guests (and whose story informed the novel and TV series The Lions of Sicily that we wrote about in part 1) before becoming a hotel in 1900. The expansive property maintains the best of the turn-of-the-century design, a harmonious blend of Liberty, Art Nouveau, and Belle Epoque styles. The ceilings in the ballroom, the frescoes in the old breakfast room Sala Basile, and the painted niches in the staircase are just a few reminders that we don’t make ‘em like we used to.

Today, the hotel is run by another prominent Italian family, Rocco Forte Hotels. As at all their hotels, Sir Rocco’s sister Olga Polizzi was responsible for the design, here in partnership with designer Paolo Moschino — their goal to preserve the history, elegance, and charm of the place while adding a fresh, modern touch. (The blue, brown, green, and yellow in Sala Basile’s frescoes informed the palette throughout.) The rooms and suites are supremely comfy and homey. The textiles are a harmonious mix of florals, stripes, and geometric patterns; the furnishings are plush and sink-in-able. I had a mountain of work to do in the days I was here, and I was not sorry to be “stuck” in my room for a day.

I was visiting in late spring before it was warm enough to swim, but still made the most of the extensive outdoor areas along the sea. I had Sicilian caponata and grilled fish for lunch at Alicetta, the bistro by the pool. After that day of work, my aperitivo turned into a snack-filled dinner at Terrazza Bar, when my sofa under the vaulted columns proved too relaxing to leave — my list of city restaurants to check out be damned. (In warmer months, hotel guests have access to the Mida Beach Club nearby.)

When I did leave the hotel, my first stop was one recommended by the concierge team as part of their Sicilian Matriarchy itinerary: the showroom of Manima, a bespoke embroidery studio overseen by founder Carolina Guthmann. As I waited at the entrance, I noticed a list of names in loopy handwriting on a whiteboard: Hermès, Zimmerman, Timeo Belmond, Google. Clients, it turns out, who had commissioned Manima’s exquisite napkins, tablecloths, clothing, and other pieces for private label sale or special events. 

The embroidery is done by a team of 30 women trained by Guthmann and her chief embroiderer in what risks becoming a lost art. These women, Guthmann tells me proudly, would have been stuck with “jobs as sales clerks or waitresses but are now creating work they are proud to call theirs.” Guthmann’s husband and partner Piero di Pasquale, a former US-based political journalist, showed me a pillow decorated with an embroidered peacock and explained the inspiration behind the design: a turban jewel made by a Parisian jeweler for the maharaja of Jaipur to wear to the wedding of the king of Spain in the early 1900s. The finished product was its own jewel, as are the ottomans Manima creates in partnership with the Japanese artist Kazumi Yoshida. We may not make ‘em all like we used to, but we do some things just as well.

A few other things that turned my head in Palermo:

• The views from the top of the Cathedral of Palermo.
• Cappella Palatina. (More on that below.)
• The naked statues in Piazza Pretoria.
• The boutiques along Via Alessandro Paternostro, including stationer Edizioni Precarie, who makes notebooks from paper used to wrap food.

I got invaluable advice on Palermo from Angelo Piraino, a gem of a chap who handles sales for Rocco Forte Hotels in Sicily. He also regaled me with tales about the vivid history of the villa. A native son of Palermo, his enthusiasm for his home town is contagious. I can’t imagine anyone better to plan a perfect day in the city that, as he says, “is overflowing with places to love.” Here it is.

My Perfect Day in Palermo

by Angelo Piraino

Morning
Il Mercato del Capo
There’s no better way to start the day than with a stroll through this lively and colorful market. It’s authentic and full of soul — the essence of Palermo. Local vibe, fresh produce overflowing, and the scent of street food in the air. Pure energy!

Le Angeliche
After the market buzz, I always love a peaceful stop here. It's a charming little bistro tucked away, where you can enjoy delicious homemade treats and take a moment to slow down.

Late Morning
I Segreti del Choistro at Monastery of Santa Caterina d’Alessandria
A true gem, full of silence, history, and grace. This former cloister is now a peaceful retreat in the heart of the city, and the pastries — especially the cannoli made using the nuns’ traditional recipe — are legendary. Insider tip: Climb up to the rooftop terrace of the monastery for one of the most breathtaking views of Palermo you’ll find anywhere in the city.

Casa Stagnitta
Just nearby, I stop here for an espresso with character. One of Palermo’s oldest coffee roasters, this little shop is full of charm and aroma.

Early afternoon
The Palatine Chapel
The Cappella Palatina at the Royal Palace of Palermo is simply unforgettable. Its dazzling mosaics, a fusion of Arab, Norman, and Byzantine artistry, are unlike anything you’ve ever seen. Every detail tells a story, and walking into this sacred space feels like entering a golden dream. It is one of my favorite places in town; every time I can, I come for a visit.

Afternoon
Molo Trapezoidale
One of Palermo’s newest waterfront promenades is a beautiful place to enjoy the sea breeze. Whether you're in the mood for a walk, a gelato, or just sitting by the water doing nothing at all, it’s a peaceful and refreshing escape from the city's bustle.

(Top alternative!)

A boat trip along the bay of Mondello
Especially during summer, I love hopping on a boat and taking a dip in the crystalline waters near Mondello. It's a kind of dreamy moment, surrounded by the natural beauty of Sicily’s coastline.

Early Evening – Aperitivo & Dinner
Igiea Terrazza Bar, Villa Igiea
For me, this is the ultimate place for an aperitivo. With its timeless elegance, refined atmosphere, and stunning views over the Gulf of Palermo, it captures the soul of Sicilian hospitality. The cocktails are expertly crafted, the light golden hour is pure magic, and the setting is simply iconic.

And if I’m staying for dinner, I never miss the chance to sit down at the Florio Restaurant at Villa Igiea. Helmed by the extraordinary chef Fulvio Pierangelini, the cuisine is truly special. Every dish feels like a love letter to Sicily, rooted in tradition, yet elevated by Pierangelini’s unmistakable touch — soulful and deeply memorable.

After Dinner
The winding lanes between Piazza Marina and Corso Vittorio Emanuele
A perfect way to end the day, strolling through these medieval alleyways filled with history, character, and the unmistakable energy of modern-day Palermo.

Click through to our Substack, Way to Go, to see our favorite hotels around Sicily and an essential six-pack of Sicilian wines.