Into the Azores
Hawaii? No, the Azores. Photo by Gaby Keiderling.
The Azores continue to fascinate us for their rugged natural beauty, simple pleasures, and easygoing style. Let's hope it never changes.
“Look out for the cows.”
From Lisbon to the Algarve, the lighthearted warning for the next leg of our Portugal trip tailed us. Going into the Azores, I wish I could say that our expectations didn’t echo the hype — all those wanderlust travel accounts declaring it the Hawaii of Europe. While that expectation partially held some truth, the Azores are so much more than any trending label.
My boyfriend and I boarded the direct flight from Lisbon to Ponta Delgada on São Miguel, the main island, and two hours later we were descending into the green and blue canvas. On this archipelago of nine islands in the Atlantic Ocean, metropolitan life was instantly forgotten. Yes, the Azores are home to the towering volcanoes of Hawaii, but so too the verdure mountains of Switzerland, the crystal blue craters of Australia, the rushing waves of Costa Rica. In short, an amalgamation of nature’s most pristine feats. We drove on paved roads lined by London plane trees, rural barns, and quaint towns tucked in sweeping valleys, steep cliffs giving way to the bluest waters. And, yes, we found fields of contrasting black and white cows everywhere we looked. Friendly, furry, and free to roam their island farms.
Despite dating back to 1427, the Azores feel newly discovered. There’s something untouched about these islands that, although populated with hotels and resorts amid local towns, don’t feel touristy. This is amazing and wonderful, and we should all do what we can to ensure it lasts. Because if you’re reading this, you may soon be traveling to the Azores. Here’s how to do it right.
Where to Stay
Santa Barbara Eco Resort
For a Luxurious Adventure
If you tried describing the most picturesque and luxe boutique island resort, you would most likely be describing Santa Barbara. Founded by surfer and entrepreneur João Reis, sustainability is at the hotel’s core. The island’s first eco beach resort is harmoniously integrated into the natural surroundings and terrain to minimize impact on the landscape through a construction process that prioritized natural materials. The suites and villas (3o in all) have a kitchenette, living room, and spacious balcony; some have jacuzzis and saltwater pools. A gastronomic farm-to-table restaurant serves innovative and fresh food — and excellent aperitifs. The highlight of the resort was the black sandy beach, the homebase for local surfers. We spent every day at the adjacent surf shack, replenishing ourselves after a day catching waves at the Beach Club. The only bad part of Santa Barbara Eco Resort? Having to leave.
White Hotel
For a Romantic Getaway
If you’re headed to the Azores for a honeymoon, an anniversary, or simply we-time with your partner, Santa Barbara’s sister property is the intimate refuge you seek. How discreet is it? Well, we passed the hotel twice before realizing that an undistinguished white door was the entrance. Walking in, the ocean greeted us straight ahead. A firepit, infinity pool, and dining area sat perched above the waves. Inside, the minimalist design transported us to what we imagine a hidden five-star hotel in Greece would feel like. Renowned Portuguese chef Vitor Sobral (also the restaurant consultant of Santa Barbara) oversaw such meticulously crafted dishes as tuna tartare atop avocado puree and a salad of just-caught prawns.
Octant Furnas
For a Wellness Retreat
A trip to the Azores isn’t complete without a visit to the island’s mineral hot springs. Which are situated right near Octant hotel in Furnas. Once you’ve dipped into the bubbling natural beauties (which also serve as an oven of sorts for the locals to cook in and also provide heat for the island), head to the spa at Octant. After spending time in the indoor and outdoor thermal pools, you might want a couples massage. Or a body treatment. Reflexology. Maybe some exfoliation. The list goes on. We finished our day with a dinner at À Terra, feasting on fresh bread, local cheeses, and a very large pork chop.
Where to Eat
We ate so well at the hotels that we didn’t end up venturing into any of the towns for dinner, though we’ll do that next time. A local speciality is cozido das Furnas, a special stew made by burying meat and vegetables in the volcanic soil underground at the Furnas hot springs. You don’t have to go to Furnas to eat it, but that’s the most authentic option. Wherever you go, don’t skip the special milk bread and cheese you’ll be offered everywhere you go.
What to Do
For this avid surfer (or aspiring surfer, considering I’m a New Yorker ), Watergliders Surf Club is the spot. We spent our days on the island surfing waves that changed on a daily basis — changing from beginner-level bumps to expert swells within 24 hours. We booked epic experiences through Get Your Guide: canyoning (hiking through rapids and rappelling down waterfalls) and ATVing around Sete Cidades.
If we had had more time, we would have added horseback riding, hiking, and touring the only functioning tea plantation in Europe. We’ll get to that on our next adventure.
Plan Your Trip
Rent a Car
While taxis are available (but not Uber), you should rent a car so you can drive around and explore. The local companies offer airport pickup and hotel drop-off options. Driving is easy, as long as you don’t mind speedy Portuguese drivers — the roads are smooth, paved, and filled with directional signs. It doesn’t take more than 40 minutes to get from one end of the island to the other, making it easy to explore.
Visit the Other Islands
Every island offers a different experience. Pico is home to the highest mountain in Portugal. Terceira is known as the festive island’ due to its myriad of religious and traditional year round celebrations. There is no ferry to the islands from Sāo Miguel, so you will need to fly to Pico or Faial and take ferries from there, making it a day trip or overnight stay. We stayed on Sāo Miguel the entire time, but we’ll hit the other islands next time.