Checking In and Checking Out

A New Reason to Visit a Catskill Classic

by Daniel Schwartz
Scribner's The living room at the Rounds. Photo by Chris Mottalini / courtesy of Scribner's Catskill Lodge.

HUNTER, New York – By now, you’re probably sick of hearing about Catskill hotels. A new one opens every season, or so it seems. But allow me to wax poetic about one that’s been around since 2016: Scribner’s Catskill Lodge, a reinterpretation by multidisciplinary design firm Post Company of the old Scribner Hollow Motor Lodge, a Catskill classic in the shadow of Hunter Mountain that had been welcoming city dwellers since the 1960s.

When it reopened in 2016, Scribner’s set a standard for a new age of Catskill hotel: boutique, bespoke, and a far cry from the Borscht belt resorts of old. In the years since, the hotel has managed to remain relevant in an increasingly crowded market thanks to, well, a number of things.

For starters, the thoughtful programming: from a meet-the-makers series and regular DJ sets by the pool to the occasional event with a cool company from New York City (like a Paulie Gee’s Pizza party).

Then there's a full package of amenities, from the ever-evolving restaurant to the Instagram-famous barrel sauna and seasonal Glice (synthetic ice) rink. Those who want to make this place their upstate second home can avail themselves of an artist-in-residence program and a tiered social club membership with perks like pool and rink access (no stay necessary), discounts on rooms and meals, and even complimentary weeknight stays and wellness classes.

The latest reason to check in? The Rounds, a collection of eleven luxury cabins modeled after European mountain huts and located just up the road from The Lodge. These distinct, twelve-sided, wood-clad structures, also designed by Post Company, come in two layouts — standard sleeps up to four while the suite accommodates up to five — and are best suited for travelers looking for a private, back-to-nature, all-season experience without going off-grid.

I stayed in one of the suites over the summer and can attest that even though it’s only a quick hike or drive from the rooms in The Lodge, it’s an altogether different experience. My days were spent lounging in my conversation pit in front of a gas-stove fireplace, soaking in the outdoor Japanese cedar tub to the tune of birds chirping and leaves rustling, and partaking in such stressful activities as morning yoga, wine tasting, a candle-pouring class, and evening s’mores at the the communal Apex Lodge, yet another eye-catching place where guests at The Rounds can gather.

The Apex Lodge. Photo by Moriah Wolfe / courtesy of Scribner's Catskill Lodge.
The bar at Apex Lodge. Photo by Chris Mottalini / courtesy of Scribner's Catskill Lodge.
The Apex Lodge. Photos by Daniel Schwartz.
The author's suite. Photos by Daniel Schwartz.
The author's suite, outside and oculus. Photos by Daniel Schwartz.

The suite was composed of two huts joined together, one the bedroom, the other the living area. At the apex of the vaulted pantheon ceiling is an oculus (or oculi, if you consider that I had two) that bathes the minimalist interiors in natural light by day and the glow of the stars by night. This feature, along with well-positioned windows and plenty of great nooks for gazing, helps make nature the focus here, even when you’re inside. So as idyllic as my experience was in the middle of the summer, I couldn’t help but imagine how great it would be in fall or winter, sipping a hot cocoa on the sunken sofa surrounded by hues of red and orange or snow falling just beyond the windows.

Part of what made the experience so great was knowing that, even though I felt at one with nature in my Round, I was never far from the action. There was plenty to do down at The Lodge, from talking plant care with resident gardener Andrew Koehn to playing pool by the circular fireplace in the library and taking a schvitz in the sauna overlooking Hunter Mountain.

Because it was summer, I dedicated one afternoon to soaking up the sun by the outdoor pool that’s open seasonally and offers one of the best vantage points for taking in the mountains. To my surprise, two of my friends from the city were chatting in the water, staying cool while drinking natural wine.

The rendezvous wasn’t planned, mind you. This is just that kind of place.

The Scribner's Garden. Photos by Daniel Schwartz.
Prospect Restaurant. Photos by Daniel Schwartz.
Scribner's pool and sauna. Photos by Daniel Schwartz.

At a Glance

The Vibe: The Lodge: carefree bohemian. The Rounds: all about quiet luxury.

Standout Detail: The Rounds. Anything with a view of the mountains is a close second.

This Place Is Perfect For: City folk looking for a complete Catskill escape.

Rooms: The 38 rooms in the main Lodge come in twelve configurations, including two suites on the top floor with cozy living spaces and oversized private balconies. All rooms have furniture and decor from local design studios such as Fort Standard and Fern NYC, wall art crafted by locals like Emily Johnson and The Catskill Kiwi, and walk-in rain showers with handcrafted terracotta tiling. Some rooms have the high-peaked ceilings of the property’s original architecture, while others have in-room cast-iron fireplaces. If you’re looking for privacy, more space to splay out, or more of an immersive nature experience, The Rounds are your best bet.

Food + Drink: The on-site restaurant Prospect serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner with 270-degree views of the Catskill Mountains. The menu, which incorporates ingredients from the on-site garden, changes seasonally and is helmed by chef Alejandro Reyes Herrera, formerly of the three-Michelin-starred Cocina Hermanos Torres in Barcelona. (Yeah, you can say they attract serious culinary talent here.) There’s no shortage of places to eat here either, from the outdoor deck to the intimate Whiskey Lounge with its fireplace, leather club chairs, and vintage decor evoking the 1960s. You can get room service no matter your room type, which is nice when you want breakfast and don’t want to leave your Round.

On Site: The amenities change based on the season. In the cold months, a Glice rink on the bluestone patio overlooks Hunter Mountain and a healthy aprés scene fills the hotel. In the warm months, the pool is the center of the action and the garden is likely in full bloom. The sauna and library are open year-round, and something is always going on in one of the hotel’s many social spaces.

Photo by Moriah Wolfe / courtesy of Scribner's Catskill Lodge.
Photo by Moriah Wolfe / courtesy of Scribner's Catskill Lodge.
Photo by Moriah Wolfe / courtesy of Scribner's Catskill Lodge.
Kaaterskill Falls are not far away. Photo courtesy of Greene County Tourism.

What to Do Nearby

Near the hotel, you’ll find skiing, snowboarding, sledding, and snowshoeing at Hunter and Windham Mountains in the winter and everything from hiking and fly fishing to river tubing and zipline tours in the greater area the rest of the year. Fellow Mountain Cafe in Hunter (from the folks behind Scribner’s) is a great pitstop for sandwiches, pastries, and coffee no matter what you’re doing.

Neighboring Tannersville is home to more great dining options, including Tabla for a date-night-worthy dinner and Mama’s Boy Burgers for glorious burgers and shakes. The cocktail bar and lounge at Hotel Lilien hosts live music on Saturday and Sunday nights. Don’t miss Tannersville Antiques & Artisan Center because you never know the treasures you’ll find at one of the largest antique stores around.

Outside Tannersville, Kaaterskill Falls makes for a great scenic trek if you’re short on time. Further afield are tons of cute shops, cafes, bars, and restaurants in Kingston, Rhinebeck, and Hudson, with plenty of farmers stands, hiking trails, and other hidden gems in between. When in doubt, ask the hotel concierges — they’ll point you in the right direction.

We make every effort to ensure the information in our articles is accurate at the time of publication. But the world moves fast, and even we double-check important details before hitting the road.