A Dessert Guy's Guide to Palermo Sweets and Sites
Take a page from his (cook)book. Photos courtesy of Renato Poliafito.
We have been admiring and devouring the sweet treats of Brooklyn baker Renato Poliafito for years. His adorable Ciao, Gloria cafe (in dangerously close proximity to my house) is a neighborhood mainstay, and what goes on inside the pastry case is magical. The James Beard Award-nominated cookbook author has a new tome to celebrate. Dolci! American Baking with an Italian Accent is part cookbook and part travelogue, a sweet historical account of his family history in Sicily and a celebration of Sicilian-American flavors, techniques, and attitudes in the kitchen. Home cooks, sweet-tooth types, and Italophiles alike will appreciate the warm tone, pretty pictures, and charming anecdotes that accompany recipes for colorful cookies, savory snacks, and towering cakes. Poliafito shares some recommendations for Palermo, Sicily, a flavorful locale which served as an inspiration for recipes and stories in the book. — Jeralyn
I usually plan my visits to Italy around food (this IS Italy, after all), and Palermo is no exception. My first and foremost recommendation is to try the street food in Palermo. There is so much on offer, from panelle to sfincione to spleen. Some bites are for the adventurous, and all are tasty and delicious. Don't skip out: The heart and soul of the city is found in its street food.
Sweets
I'm known for being a sweets guy. I love desserts of all kinds, and Sicilians have a sweet tooth for sure. All the places listed below have wonderful cannoli, but let's try and look a little beyond that, shall we?
Pasticceria Costa
various locations, but the one on Via Maqueda is particularly pretty
Classic treats you would expect from a Sicilian pastry shop, lovingly crafted and presented. The almond granita and brioche here make for a fantastic breakfast (and one of my fave morning options) on a sweltering summer day. (Recipes for granita and brioche are in my book.)
Bar Vabres
Via Michele Cipolla 83/85
For old-school Sicilian vibes. All the pastries are great, especially the classic Sicilian Iris (a round brioche that looks like a jelly doughnut and is often filled with ricotta). They also have ridiculously good arancine (you don't say arancini on the eastern side of the island, where my family is from).
Bar Touring
Via Lincoln 15
Another spot for a giant softball-sized rice ball, a favorite with both tourists and locals. Everything else is solid here, too.
La Dolceria Di Santa Caterina
Inside the Santa Caterina Monastery of Palermo (circa 1311) is a confectionary referred to as i segreti del chiostro (the secrets of the cloister), where bakers continue in the tradition of the nuns that baked and sold sweets to support the church. The grounds include a beautiful courtyard where guests can enjoy an espresso and bun.
Ojda
Piazza Aragona 1
If you are looking for simpler, more familiar fare of the non-fried or ricotta-filled variety, give this hip cafe and shop a try. It has a Scandinavian bend — unique in Palermo — and a menu of both sweet and savory (think oat milk latte, cardamom bun, salad). A nice change of pace for a coffee or a smaller, lighter dish.
Gelato Cappadonia
various locations: Piazzetta Francesco Bagnasco, 29; Via Vittorio Emanuele, 401; Via Filippo Patti, 30
With so many gelato options (Palermo declares itself the birthplace of gelato), it really is hard to choose just one. But might I suggest Cappadonia, with its modern interiors and truly fresh approach to gelato making. Using locally sourced ingredients, Antonio Cappadonia makes flavors that are outstanding. As a zabaglione fan, I suggest the crema all'uovo flavor; for sorbetto, fichi d'india is a winner. But really, all the flavors are stellar.
Sites
Teatro Massimo
This massive and impressive opera house should not be missed. Book a tour or try to catch a performance.
Cappella Palatina, Palazzo Dei Normani
Piazza del Parlamento, 1
As an art major in college, I didn't really understand the excitement my professor had over Byzantine art. This place changed my opinion. Take a peek inside the Capella and prepare to be wowed by the expanse and detail. Painstakingly restored and maintained, it is a must for any art history nerd.
Palermo Cathedral
Via Vittorio Emanuele, 490
Palermo was invaded a million times, and the architecture reflects that. This cathedral screams Arab invasion, but there are layers and layers of conquest and inspiration visible throughout the church and its grounds. Get here early, skip the hordes, and get on the roof for a nice view of the city and beyond.
Quattro Canti
Piazza Vigliena, at the intersection of Via Maqueda and the Corso Vittorio Emanuele.
Just "four corners" — but a really exquisite four corners — this Baroque square in the center of the city is actually octagonal, with multiple fountains and statues in niches.
Mercato Di Ballarò
Piazzetta Boglino Luigi, 4
Street markets! I love a good street market. There are plenty around the city, and this one, at around one thousand years old, is the most historic. Think chaos with a side of artichoke. Worth a walkthrough if nothing else.
Mercato Antico
Piazza Marina, 6
An antique market only operating on Sunday mornings. Go at 8 a.m. to score a find; obviously, the offers thin as the day wears on.