A Horse of a Different Color: Louisville Beyond the Derby

LOUISVILLE, Kentucky — Louisville grabs the national spotlight every May when their iconic horses and haberdashers ride into town for the Kentucky Derby. But even when it’s down time at Churchill Downs, there’s plenty to do in this historic river town.

Case in point: I recently traveled to Louisville (which I learned is pronounced “law-vill” not “loo-ee-vill”) for the completely horseless Bourbon & Beyond festival. A half mile east of the iconic Derby racetrack is the Kentucky Expo Center, 300 acres of outdoor space that hosts events like the North American International Livestock Expo, the Mid-America Trucking Show, and the Kentucky State Fair. The four-day event I attended featured more than 100 bourbons — from heavy hitters like Maker’s Mark to small artisanal brands like Evan Williams. Live performers included the world-famous, like Ringo Starr & His All-Starr Band, as well as Kentucky-grown talent, like Grammy-winner Sturgill Simpson and hipster rock band Cage the Elephant.

Away from the festival grounds is NuLu, a quirky nickname for the “new Louisville” and the hub of the city’s renaissance. The main drag, Market Street, is home to the swanky bar Seven. Opened in 2023, it would fit in just fine in New York or Los Angeles. The Whisky to Go Go cocktail is a creative combo of bourbon, Fernet Branca, port, and Coca-Cola — pre-batched and theatrically brought to your table in a classic glass Coke bottle, re-opened, and poured over ice cubes.

Across the street in a two-story building is Lou Lou, a big and breezy New Orleans-style restaurant that serves exceptional gumbo and crawfish etouffee (which do wonders for a hangover) and often hosts live bands.

I stayed in The Highlands, an older neighborhood with an edgy, college-town vibe. Its streets are painted with vibrant murals, dotted with dispensaries, and home to quirky spots like Holy Grale, a former chapel house turned beer hall. “We worship beer,” they proclaim, but if you want a drink with the brown stuff, they’ll oblige. (Everyone in Bourbon City will.)

I set down for five nights down the street at The Myriad Hotel, a two-story former disco ball factory (how great is that?) that is now a chic 65-room property. A petite but charming pool area, dubbed the Swim Club, has taken a cue from Miami Beach with its bright colors and pool bar. Maybe it makes sense that the kitschy Cuban restaurant and rum bar La Bodeguita de Mima is just a mile away.

The more traditional Louisville experience happens on Whiskey Row, a one-block street downtown lined with distilleries and bars in Revivalist and Chicago School-style buildings, many with cast-iron storefronts built between 1852 and 1905.

Last summer, Pursuit Spirits opened the moody cocktail lounge Trial + Error down a flight of stairs past a nondescript door that opens to a big “Howdy” sign. A long bar with dim lights swinging overhead leads the way to the glass-enclosed studio that’s home to the Bourbon Pursuit podcast.

Down the block is the renowned 21c Museum Hotel, the original outpost of the art hotel brand. It’s easy to find: A double-size, golden replica of Michelangelo’s David by artist Serkan Özkaya greets guests out front. The creativity extends from the gallery spaces into the guest rooms: Artists Jonah Freeman and Justin Lowe created the site-specific installation Asleep in the Cyclone in a hotel room for the most immersive art experience you can dream of. The hotel’s Proof on Main is one of the most celebrated restaurants in town, but I had other culinary plans after my art fix.

A sunset dinner at River House offers a glimpse into the old South. Tucked along the Ohio River, the sprawling restaurant and raw bar serve very generous portions of seafood towers and traditional Southern fare like succotash, fried green tomatoes, grits, and brilliant butternut squash gratin. The service is friendly and paced.

Feel free to slow down (er, hold your horses) and enjoy a taste of what Louisville has to offer.