Say Yes to Nisantası, Istanbul's Coolest Neighborhood

As much as we're digital-first around here, we love a good guidebook. By which we mean an actual, hold-in-your-hand, made-of-paper book. (We've even written a few ourselves. Our latest was an award-winner.) Among the best we've ever seen is the Monday to Sunday Book series, a deep dive into curated experiences in a single city, created by our friends Seda Domaniç and Sinan Sökmen. Seda, a writer and editor based between Istanbul and Athens, was the founding editor-in-chief of Vogue Turkey. Her husband Sinan is the founder of the boutique travel agency Istanbul Tour Studio. In this excerpt from Monday to Sunday Istanbul, Seda continues the tour around the Nişantaşı, which began with a look at Turkiye's top designers. Originally settled by the Ottoman empire elite, Nişantaşı became the preferred home of the city's intelligencia — writers, artists, journalists, doctors — and today is one of the most liberal and progressive neighborhoods in Istanbul neighborhood. Here's how to enjoy it.

Eat an Elegant Lunch at a Fancy Brasserie

Making very good use of its prime place on the mini town square in the middle of the upscale shopping street Abdi İpekçi, Gizia Brasserie, belonging to the women’s clothing brand Gizia, quickly became a neighborhood meeting point. Try to grab a table outside so you can comfortably people-watch whilst dining on Italian dishes accompanied by wine. Also, be forewarned that the many cats who live in the nearby Nişantaşı Park wander around the area and will likely drop by your table to see if there’s anything edible you’d like to share.

Just a few steps away, you’ll find Gizia Gate, a concept store that brings together the collections of Turkey’s most successful designers under one roof. A great introduction to modern Turkish fashion design, you’ll find collections from leading names such as Bora Aksu, Chalayan, Dice Kayek, Dilek Hanif, Hakan Yıldırım, Nihan Peker, Özlem Süer, Zeynep Tosun, and many more.

Another good alternative for lunch is at St. Regis Brasserie, situated right under the St. Regis Hotel and across from many global luxury brands. With its Art Deco-inspired design and a menu highlighting international hits, St. Regis Brasserie is always a chic option for a late brunch, a long lunch, or a quick meeting right in the social epicenter of Istanbul.

Browse Through Designer Collections Under One Roof

An essential stop for fashion enthusiasts is, of course, Beymen, one of Turkey’s most important department stores with more than 900 designer brands in its collection. The fact that Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, Dior, Valentino, Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana, Celine, Chloé, Stella McCartney, and Etro are exclusive to Beymen in Turkey is reason enough to browse the goods at this iconic store. The store also has an excellent accessories floor, where you can discover unique designs of local jewelry and accessory brands such as Aida Bergsen, Baguette, Bee Goddess, Berrin Özkan, Melis Göral, Mer’s, Nilgün Ata, Tohum Design, and many more. The menu of Beymen Brasserie, situated at the entrance level, also offers all-time favorites, and the ‘to see and to be seen place’ welcomes loyal local clients and wandering fashionistas almost all day long.

Lose Track of Time at Bookshops and Art Galleries

Having spent enough time in the worlds of fashion and people-watching, it’s time to retreat into a bookshop. A bookworm’s paradise, Patika Kitabevi is one of those places where you’ll lose track of time as you browse through their books and international magazines, as well as rare and special editions. Another beautiful bookshop is Minoa, with an abundant collection that includes everything from serious literature to photography, gastronomy to design, and even children’s books. 

Inside the modern Reasürans Çarşısı, part of an award-winning project designed by architects Hadi and Sevinç Sandor in 1992, the Milli Reasürans Art Gallery has been a longstanding representative of Turkish and international artists, having hosted around 170 exhibitions since its inception in 1994. A gallery that’s also focused on design, photography, architecture, and thematic exhibitions, the works of Belkıs Balpınar, Selçuk Demirel, Ara Güler, and Nuri Bilge Ceylan have already graced its walls. 

Maçka Art Gallery, Portakal Art and Culture House, and SODA are among other art spaces to note. You will also be able to discover many interesting small galleries and concept stores through a leisurely walk from Maçka Avenue to Ahmet Fetgari Street, lined with numerous cafés and dessert joints. Sip on coffee, eat something sweet from the many homey bakeries, and watch the glamorous Nişantaşı locals go about their business.

Cherish the Good Weather with a Picnic in the Park

Take your picnic box and head to the neighborhood’s well-kept main park, Maçka Parkı, to enjoy an afternoon snack in the midst of nature in the city. Since it’s Saturday, you’ll see lots of locals strolling around, taking their dogs for a walk, going for a jog, or just hanging out on the grass for a much-needed weekend respite. This is another place where the area’s friendly stray dogs and cats might come by to say hello.

Don't Stop There

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