Giddy Up, Grandma!

Look, up in the hills! It's a happy multi-generational family holiday trip to Tucson’s Tanque Verde Ranch.

I doubt I’ll ever again see more Jews eating ribs than I did at a cowboy cookout in Tucson on Christmas Eve. 

With a reservation list that resembled a synagogue’s membership directory, my people gathered at Tanque Verde Ranch, line dancing and throwing back prickly pear margaritas. We had no presents to wrap, no stockings to stuff, no cookies to bake for Santa. Instead, families from all over the country arrived with kids and grandparents in tow, celebrating the end of Hanukkah — and the freedom to fly home on Christmas morning, the least crowded travel day of the year.

Like most of the holiday gang, my family had arrived about a week earlier. I took a quick flight from Los Angeles with my husband and two kids; my parents flew in from New York. The ranch provided a complimentary shuttle from the Tucson airport, winding through the desert toward the Rincon Mountains, flanked by Saguaro National Park and Coronado National Forest. At reception, we reunited and immediately dove into scheduling activities.

Established in 1868, the ranch has had more than a century to prepare for the steady stream of questions that greet the front desk each morning as guests sign up for everything from pickleball to Pilates.

What if it rains?
The horses ride in all weather.

Will I catch a fish in the lake?
Probably not.

May I sign up for the lope ride?
No.

That last answer requires explanation. To lope — or canter — you have to pass a riding test, proving to the wranglers that you can stay in the saddle while your horse picks up speed across the desert trail. I grew up riding every summer at ranch camp and still failed the test, along with everyone else in my group. Most of us looked fairly competent to one another, but the ranch is strict about safety. One woman who passed last year failed this year. As a mother, I appreciated the caution, even as disappointed would-be lopers of all ages trudged away from the corral.

If you fail, you’re steered toward a horsemanship lesson to brush up on skills. I took one — it was fun — and then failed the test again. Still rusty.

After that, I happily settled into the Sunrise Ranch Morning Breakfast ride, a gentle walk through towering cacti, ending at an outdoor kitchen perched on a hilltop where pancakes and eggs were waiting. My mother and daughter opted to walk up on their own to meet us there. Like most things at the ranch, it’s a choose-your-own-adventure situation.

Stringent lope policy notwithstanding, about 30 percent of the guests return year after year, some visiting several times annually. Ranch stays have become a beloved ritual for extended families, who fill their days with hiking, tennis, archery, falconry, mountain biking — or nothing at all. Kids under 12 can disappear into camp for the day, even during meals, giving adults a chance to reclaim a little quiet time.

On the only rainy afternoon, we turned to indoor pursuits like yoga, workouts in the gym, watercolor workshops, and metal smithing. On the hot, sunny days, everything seemed to end the same way: lounging by the pool or soaking in the hot tub.

I booked a hot stone massage with a deeply knowledgeable therapist who told me know the spa is about to undergo a major renovation and expansion due for completion late next year. She also praised my smooth fascia, which made me feel pleasantly smug about my workout routine.

My parents, both in their 80s, were feeling smug, too. They became minor celebrities among the other Jewish grandparents after racking up long morning hikes, collecting admiration — and email addresses — for future Holocaust book swapping, a popular pastime for this particular crowd.

One night after dinner, my mom stopped at the front desk to review the next day’s schedule. After confirming her morning bird-watching excursion, the receptionist offered a warning for the walk alone back to the room: “Watch out for the javelina family. They’re very aggressive.”

“Why are they aggressive?” asked my mother, a therapist. The families she’d been meeting all week had been lovely.

The javelinas, it turns out, were hardly a disgruntled clan of Jews upset about failing the lope test. They’re wild animals — pig-like members of the peccary family — and we spotted them later that evening, being shooed away from the ribs as we line danced with our tribe on Christmas Eve.

Plan Your Trip

Book early. Trail rides — especially the morning breakfast ride — and spa appointments should be reserved weeks in advance. About a week before arrival, you’ll receive access to the ranch’s online scheduling portal.

Stay flexible. Each evening at dinner, guests can tweak their schedules at the activities desk where you can tweak your schedule, and it’s possible to get off waitlists.

Know the age rules. The kids' program is for kids aged 4-12.  On the regular trail rides, kids need to be 12 or older. Parents can ride with kids aged 7-12 on the "parents ride with kids" breakfast ride and sunset rides.

Adventure off campus. We booked a half-day canyoneering trip with the independent outfitter Altitude Mountain Guides, which turned out to be a highlight. Our guide picked us up at the ranch and drove about 20 minutes to the trailhead, where we hiked into the national park, rappelling and traversing the canyon in harnesses.

What to Pack

Ranch attire is both pragmatic and fashionable: Cowboy boots and hats, denim on denim and plaid flannel all feel right at home. You need long pants for riding through the cacti! Temperatures can swing dramatically, so check the forecast and pack accordingly. 

Bring a refillable water bottle — the ranch only offers single-use plastic ones. Tennis and pickleball rackets, yoga mats, and saddlebags (for stashing your phone while riding) are provided. They also offer coin operated laundry facilities which can be useful if you plan to ride a lot.

Getting There

Fly into Tucson and take the complimentary shuttle — about 20 miles to the ranch. Alternatively, fly into Phoenix and drive roughly 120 miles. Renting a car is useful if you plan to leave the property for a meal; while the buffet is excellent, it can get repetitive. The ranch is fairly isolated, but The Barnyard is a fun nearby option.