A meal here can just as easily skew decadent — if you spring for the "big chicken dinner" and pair it with bubbles — or down-home (hush puppies, six-packs, and soft-serve with jimmies). With a daily catch and no fewer than ten seasonal side salads, the menu is accommodating, even of calorie-counters. The cannily redesigned space, formerly Leon's Paint & Body Shop and now a study in ramshackle chic, will speak to coolhunters and Brooklynites, but the vibe here is refreshingly come-one-come-all.