Master mixologist Massimo d'Addezio and chef Andrea Fusco took over a gorgeous, Fascist-era reception hall at the Vatican's Auditorium and have turned into one of the city's best, if not the most stylish, cocktail lounges. High ceilings, original marble, velvet divans, and a glowing bar counter are the perfect backdrop to d'Addezio's clever concoctions.
Via della Conciliazione 4
Rome, 00193
+39-06-6889-2774
By day, a neighborhood cafe that serves snacks and drinks in the quiet residential district of Monteverde Vecchio. By night, Valeria Sebastiani — a veteran of the city's cocktail scene — mixes classic drinks, as well as mezcal and whisky cocktails. The wine list is also composed of artisanal pours from small producers with spectacular, handcrafted cheeses and cured meats to match.
Via Fratelli Bonnet 5
Rome, 00152
+39-06-4544-7639
Those famous Pantheon-adjacent coffee shops are charming and all, but Rome's serious coffee drinkers head to this spot, opened near the Vatican in 1919, instead.
Via Fabio Massimo 80/A
Roma, 00192
+39-06-321-1580
Ring the bell, see the door open a crack, and give a password. (You can find a hint on the website.) The design recalls the days of Prohibition, and they have one of Rome's, if not Italy's, most exciting and innovative cocktail lists. Open until four in the morning for night owls. Early birds can shop the emporium across the street.
Vicolo Cellini 30
Rome, 00816
+39-06-9684-5937
A fun, neighborhood bar located in a former autobody shop on the banks of the Tiber River. Out went the tools and car gear (“freni” and “frizioni” are “brakes” and “clutches”); in came vintage furniture, chandeliers, contemporary art, and a well stocked bar. In addition to cocktails, they serve a generous evening buffet.
Via del Politeama 4/6
Rome, 00153
+39-06-4549-7499
Blink and you'll miss this itsy-bitsy juice bar and eatery, a sliver of white with a big blackboard of beverages (from creamy lattes to veggie-packed smoothies) and menu of rosettes (little sandwiches stuffed with things like bresaola, parmesan, rocket, and meatballs).
Via Urbana 54
Rome, 00184
+39-06-3105-2516
A neighborly wine bar known for its champagnes and great wines recently added a full menu to its offerings. The décor is simple: wooden tables and chairs, white walls, shelves lined with bottles, a chalkboard listing wines on offer.
Via del Boschetto 41B
Rome, 00183
+39-06-4782-5953
A fun and funky bar whose name stands for "naturale, organico, alimento, umano" (natural, organic, humane, food) and is a play on the English "know-how."; There's an insider vibe – two of the owners are superstar pizzaiolo Gabriele Bonci and brewmaster Teo Musso – but the place is totally mellow, with friendly staff and painted, mismatched tables and chairs.
Piazza di Montevecchio 16
Rome, 00186
+39-06-4565-2770
A pretty little bar overlooking a quiet piazza where they serve smoothies and fresh juices in addition to cocktails. The space is slick but welcoming, with an arched ceilings, art books lining the walls, velvet sofas, and goldfish swimming in bowls on the coffee tables.
Piazza di Pietra 42
Rome, 00186
+39-06-678-5804
Rome is a city of rooftop bars (the view!) and the terrace here is one of the prettiest. The small hotel just off the Spanish Steps is owned by the nearby Hotel Hassler, which also has a terrific bar, but Il Palazzetto feels more like a find. Come year-round: heating mushrooms warm the terrace during colder months.
Vicolo del Bottino 8
Rome, 00187
+39-06-6993-4560
Like so many cool bars in Rome, this one is open from breakfast until the wee small hours, from 11 a.m.-3 p.m, then 6 p.m.-1 a.m. (Closed Monday lunch.) The former kiosk now has a cool scandinavian look and draws a fun crowd, especially on Monday nights for the party they call We Like Monday, with aperitivi, tapas, and DJ sets.
Via Flaminia 226
Rome, 00196
+39-06-3265-2754
A stunning place for a coffee or an aperitivo, filled with museum-quality sculptures and casts by Antonio Canova and the multi-generational family of his best pupil, Adamo Tadolini. There's a full restaurant, but it's best for drinks.
Via del Babuino 150A-B
Rome, 00187
+39-06-3211-0702
A hip and unique (for Rome, anyway) wine bar and lounge with a great mixture of old and new décor and friendly staff. Come for quiet drinks before dinner, a party scene, or a nightcap. They have live music Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday evenings.
Vicolo delle Vacche 9
Rome, 00186
+39-06-9761-6694
The artisanal beer scene is big in Rome, and this pub draws cute boys (and girls) who like a great draughts on tap. Yeah, it's dark, dingy, and pubby, and there's probably a soccer game on the TV, but it's totally fun when you're in that kind of mood. The name, incidentally, roughly translates as "What'd you come here for?"
Via di Benedetta 25
Rome, 00153
+39-06-6456-2046
The national museum of 21st-century arts and architecture is in a Zaha Hadid-designed building as striking for its structure as it is for its content.
Via Guido Reni 4/A
Rome, 00196
+39-06-320-1954
Designed by three famous local architects, the baroque church also became known as the Church of Artists for its special Sunday mass with artist and musician accompaniment. You can still catch a special Sunday service at noon; otherwise, take a tour during the week. Follow it up with a visit to Santa Maria dei Miracoli across the street in Piazza del Popolo.
Via del Babuino 198
Rome, 00187
+39-06-361-0594
Arguably Rome's best trattoria is in Monteverde. From the fried starters (meatballs, gnocchi) to traditional Roman pastas (carbonara, amatriciana) to classic cucina povera dishes such as oxtail, it's cucina Romana at its finest. The dining room is full every night of the week, so you should make a reservation. Cesare gets a lot of buzz. Believe the hype.
Via del Casaletto 45
Rome, 00151
+39-06-536-015
Fourth-generation baker Pierluigi Roscioli and top-notch ingredients from his family's equally well-known Salumeria Roscioli mean some of the best Roman-style thin crust pizza in town. It's pricier than the average pizzeria, but the taste more than matches the price, as does the excellent wine list.
Via del Monte della Farina 28
Rome, 00186
+39-06-6476-0475
Take a break from the crowds at Piazza Navona at this cozy friggitoria (fried snack shop). Taste test all the supplì (fried rice balls) and don't miss the spiked zabaione inspired by one of the chef's nonnas.
Via dei Banchi Vecchi 143
Rome, 00186
+39-689-160-053
The oldest trattoria in Trastevere (serving since 1482!) is a cozy, family-run restaurant that specializes in seafood. The vibe is rustic and charming: wood-beam ceilings, a few dining rooms, and walls decorated with napkins that patrons have sketched over the years.
Piazza della Gensola 15
Rome, 00153
+39-06-5833-2758
Small, trendy, and Michelin-starred, with modern, minimalist style and a surrounding balcony overhead. Italian-born and American-trained chef Cristina Bowerman is a rising star on the Italian food scene for her fresh take on classic dishes.
Vicolo del Cinque 58
Rome, 00153
+39-06-5833-5903
The Monti outpost of the great artisanal gelateria serves classic as well as inventive flavors like Kentucky, a rich chocolate with licorice and tobacco, and has a great outdoor seating area that doubles as its own homemade piazza.
Piazza Degli Zingari 5
Rome, 00184
+39-06-4890-6955
The small, family-run restaurant near the Colosseum may look unassuming, but it's a local favorite for classic Roman dishes like bruschetta Amatriciana, tonnarelli cacio e pepe, and saltinbocca alla Romana.
Via della Madonna dei Monti 9
Rome, 00184
+39-06-679-8643
Umbrian chef Lucio Sforza is on his third location of his beloved restaurant, from the original in Orvieto to a second in Montesacro and now here in Monti. Like so many local favorites, the décor is simple and there are lots of tables outside. The pared-down but sophisticated menu includes roasts, beans, and inventive interpretations of puddings.
Via del Boschetto 73
Rome, 00184
+39-06-4891-3832
It is a decidedly farm-to-table affair at the dinner table, where diners are offered the best of Lazio (the region of which Rome is the capital). Ingredients are carefully documented by province and served with care and Italian flair.
Via Urbana 47
Rome, 00184
+39-06-4788-4006
A somewhat big and very cool restaurant that spills out onto the pretty little piazza where locals gather to play chess in the afternoons. The look is industrial bistro chic: metal chairs with peeling paint, long communal tables, and a foosball table in the corner. The menu features lots of grilled specials and hearty pastas.
Via della Pace 34/36
Rome, 00186
+39-06-6899-1373
The debate over the best pizza in Rome won't be settled anytime soon. (Romans: They love to argue.) But Baffetto is easily one of the best and most classic, and its two central locations make it more accessible than many others.
Via del Governo Vecchio 114 (location on map)
Rome, 00186
+39-06-686-1617
Piazza del Teatro di Pompeo 18
Rome, 00186
+39-06-6821-0807
A cute, airy, organic café and restaurant in the center of the tiny Via Condotti neighborhood, where produce is displayed like sculpture. It feels like a pocket of super-healthy Los Angeles in Rome. The menu includes panini, pastas, and massive salads, as well as juices, milkshakes, and smoothies. Everything is delicious.
Via Borgognona 43/44
Rome, 00187
+39-06-6994-0836
Great trattoria that does all the Roman classics well. Abbacchio al forno (roast baby lamb) is the best, and they are also known for tonnarelli a cacio e pepe.
Via Mastro Giorgio 29
Rome, 00153
+39-06-574-6800
Classic Roman fare; a must if you've never been to Rome. They make arguably the best amatriciana sauce in the city. Go for the terrific old-style service and quinto quarto-style cooking (offal). Don't miss abbacchio alla cacciatora (baby lamb stew) and apple cake house-made by the chef/owner's sister.
Via Monte Testaccio 30
Rome, 00153
+39-06-574-3816
A great and inventive pizza concept that is definitely worth the trip. Round, foccaccia-style pizza is blind-baked without sauce or toppings (so the pizza is crispy all around), then topped with unusual ingredients like monkfish and urchin. Very fresh and very tasty.
Via Giuseppe Lunati 25
Rome, 00149
+39-06-559-3368
Every native Roman calls this place L'Obitorio (the morgue) for the large marble table where they make the pizza, which looks like a sarcophagus. (The burning inferno in the background only adds to the dramatic look.) Indeed, the thin-crust pizza is to die for.
Viale di Trastevere 53
Rome, 00153
+39-06-580-0919
Romans are crazy about pizza, and Pizzarium's Gabriele Bonci may as well be the godfather of the city's best pizza makers. He is known for using unusual flours (like kamut) and concocting inventive toppings (like his famous "LSD" pie with licorice, sausage, and dates). It's a trek, but it's on your way to the entrance of the Vatican.
Via della Meloria 43
Rome, 00136
+39-06-3974-5416
A very elegant old restaurant and staple of the Jewish quarter. You must order the artichokes alla romana and alla giudea. The spaghetti vongole is also terrific.
Via Monte de' Cenci 9
Rome, 00186
+39-06-686-1113
A classic, elegant Roman restaurant that serves great equally classic pastas and meat courses. It's a favorite of politicians who work around the corner (hence the bodyguards waiting outside) and local patricians.
Via del Pantheon 55
Rome, 00186
+39-06-679-2788
In the front, it's a market with the best food products from around Italy. In the back, it's an upscale wine bar/restaurant that serves great pasta and exceptional salumi. Make reservations; it's popular with locals and tourists.
Via dei Giubbonari 21-22
Rome, 00186
+39-06-687-5287
Nestled in an alley off a charming, quiet street right in the historic center. The shop specializes in imaginative flavors (raspberry-sage, honey-lemon-rosemary). Quite the palate cleanser.
Via di San Simone 70
Rome, 00186
+39-06-4547-4880
Fall in love with Al Moro for every facet of its menu: seasonal dishes like fried artichokes, puntarelle, and staples like spaghetti al Moro (a piccante reinterpretation of carbonara) and grilled meat and fish. The smallish dining rooms, all three, are like home, with chic flatware and walls covered with framed newspaper clippings and photos.
Vicolo delle Bollette 13
Rome , 00187
+39-06-678-3495
The three apartments in this restored historic building are filled with rich tapestries and Florentine artwork, which merge seamlessly, of course, with the latest technology (like iPads in every guest room). Book the the Trinita dei Monti suite for sweeping terraces, a well-stocked library, and a rooftop soaking pool.
Via del Corso 107
Rome, 00187
+39-06-6994-2219
The fixtures, the chandeliers, the textiles, the paintings, the little messages painted on the walls — there's something interesting everywhere you look, and the eclectic design pieces, artwork, and textiles converge beautifully and harmoniously. The gorgeous, 10-suite hotel is located just a block from Piazza Navona, and you can feel how close you are to the city's heartbeat.
Piazza di Pasquino 69
Rome, 00186
+39-06-6880-1085
A nouveau townhouse with a notable chef in the bistro, a mosaic on the rooftop terrace, a cozy library, and a speakeasy makes for a great home base (and place to come home to) while in Rome.
Viale Aventino 121
Rome, 00153
+39-06-4554-8810
Pretend you're a (very fortunate) Roman in one of these six hip, little apartments in a refurbished 17th-century building by the Trevi Fountain. The owner supplies seasonal recipes for your kitchen — a great excuse to shop the many farmer's markets, butcher shops, and larders around town.
Via in Arcione 94
Rome, 00187
+39-06-6929-1059
A homey, three-room bed and breakfast in a converted family home in Trastevere. Owner Luisa Longo is a textile designer whose wares are displayed in a birdcage in reception. The living room, with its grand piano, leather sofas, and rows of books, welcomes lingering, as does the courtyard garden.
Via Giuseppe Garibaldi 83
Rome, 00187
+39-06-5833-0733
A sweet and cozy hideaway in a converted 19th century townhouse on the residential Aventine Hill. The décor in the 34-room hotel is a very Roman mix of modern and antiques, and there's a lovely garden in the back for breakfast or aperitivo.
Piazza San Anselmo 2
Rome, 00153
+39-06-570-057
Ever wondered what it would be like to see the Colosseum from your window? Take up residence for a night at this little luxury hotel and bask in the light of the Roman Forum as you drink your last espresso of the night. Rooms are tastefully modern with pearly white bathrooms and fluffy robes.
Via Labicana 125
Rome, 00184
+39-06-7759-1380
A lovely, six-room boutique hotel in a centrally located palazzo near Largo Argentino and Campo de’ Fiori. The look is a classic Italian family home: Venetian glass chandeliers, upholstered chairs, rich draperies, modern bathrooms. There's nothing ostentatious and it's all very tasteful. The lovely and helpful people in charge are Carlotta Fè d'Ostiani and her uncle Paolo. Her parents run Arco dei Tolomei Guest House in Trastevere.
Via del Sudario 35
Rome, 00186
+39-06-9893-1617
A five-star hotel that mixes great modern style with excellent functionality. In other words, if you’re here on business, it won’t feel like it. There’s a great spa and a beautiful rooftop terrace bar with fantastic 360-degree views of Rome's 400+ domes.
Via Giulia 62
Rome, 00186
+39-06-686-611
It’s not a hotel so much as an intimate townhouse, with five bedrooms and one suite, one flight up from chic Via Condotti. There’s a small living room and an honor kitchen for snacks and hot and cold beverages. The decor mixes modern and classic: warm grey walls, antique sconces, heavy wooden furniture. The staff is attentive but discreet: The concierge goes off duty around 6 p.m.
Via Mario de' Fiori 28
Rome, 00187
+39-06-6992-0633
One of the best new hotels in town, it’s the third outpost of the mini J.K. Place empire. And like the truly heavenly sister properties in Florence and Capri, this one is impossibly chic yet totally welcoming, with a living room-style lobby filled with piles of art books and beautiful photography and sumptuous bedrooms upstairs.
Via di Monte d’Oro 30
Rome, 00186
+39-06-982-634
Ancient meets modern at the 14-room boutique hotel overlooking the Roman Forum that has 2,000-year-old crypt on-site. (On-site! It's the only hotel in Rome that can make this claim.) The décor is contemporary, sumptuous and almost a little overdone, with curtains draped around four-poster beds, embossed wallpaper, and dramatic chandeliers. Breakfast and cocktails are served on the rooftop terrace, which has great views.
Via degli Ibernesi 30
Rome, 00185
+39-06-6919-0970
The Ferragamo family has several hotels under their Lungarno Collection brand, many in their native Florence, but this was their first in Rome, an intimate and gorgeous, 14-room hotel that feels like a private home. Located on chic Via Condotti, it’s pricey, but the view from the rooftop bar is priceless.
Via Bocca di Leone 23
Rome, 00187
+39-06-6938-0742
A charming and picturesque hotel off Piazza del Popolo, decorated with such beautiful Art Deco, Art Nouveau, and Belle Epoque pieces that it feels like you’ve stepped back in time. There are two buildings; book a room in the newer one.
Via della Penna 22
Rome, 00186
+39-06-361-0841
Founded by a Piedmontese family in the 19th century, Moriondo e Gariglio is Rome's most revered chocolate shop. Their cacao-based confections are sold by weight from the counter at the back of the store and carefully packaged. While the dark chocolate-coated nuts and brittle travel well, the most durable items are jars of marron glacés, plump candied chestnuts in syrup.
Via del Pie' di Marmo 21/22
Rome, 00186
+39-06-699-0856
Vincenzo Mancino's haven only carries products from Lazio, the region of which Rome is capital. Favorites at Pro Loco Dol include heirloom legumes, prosciutto di Bassiano, and conciato di San Vittore, a raw-milk cheese aged in crust made from wild herbs and spices.
Via Domenico Panaroli 35
Rome, 00172
+39-06-2430-0765
The beautiful knitted cashmere sweaters, pullovers, and scarves made by two Italian sisters have been a favorite in the fashion world for decades, yet Diane and Evelyne are still keeping it in the family at their tiny atelier on Rome's Via dei Prefetti. Stop by the store if only to marvel at the boho decor.
Via dei Prefetti 10
Rome, 00186
+39-06-6813-6826
A little pocket of the Amalfi coast in Rome, where made-to-measure women's sandals are crafted on the premises. They have countless styles and colors of leather straps, and add a special twist: Jewelry that matches the shoes. Sounds crazy, but it totally works.
Via di Tor Millina 10/11
Rome, 00186
+39-06-9684-7938
There's something romantic about old bookstores: the stacks, the smell, the history, the opportunity to experience theater, history, art, and humor with the flip of the page. On the red-painted shelves you'll find rare, illustrated, and forgotten classics in English and Italian.
Via del Boschetto 20
Rome, 00184
+39-334-901-3091
The city's best flea market is as calm as its bourgeois neighborhood. More than 200 vendors sell everything from barely-worn designer clothing and exquisite jewelry to teapots and vintage cameras.
Piazza della Marina 32
Rome, 00196
+39-347-728-7452
A small and innovative interactive olfactory playground, where the Turin-based perfumers' scents are paired with music and movies (La Dolce Vita, Cleopatra), for a fantastic, full-on sensory overload. Her full range of scents are also for sale.
Piazza di Pietra 42
Rome, 00186
+39-06-6979-7625
A beautiful concept shop whose motto is “wellness and style.” There’s a Neapolitan-style barbershop, a spa for men and women, and a boutique that stocks select beauty and fashion products from some of the world’s most interesting brands. Stop in for a coffee and a browse.
Via dei Banchi Nuovi 39
Rome, 00186
+39-06-6889-2315
Beautiful, almost decadent jewelry made from weaving silver and gold with jewel-colored silk thread. The resulting bracelets, necklaces, and rings are fluid and very striking.
Via del Governo Vecchio 128
Rome, 00186
+39-06-6821-0407
Hanging from the racks of the gorgeous, light-filled boutique are collections of small-batch knitwear pieces, Italian silk short-and-shirt sets, incredible printed dresses, and elegant trousers and coats.
Via Urbana 89-92
Rome, 00184
+39-06-9603-8607
It’s almost like a little bit of Portland has seeped into the Monti neighborhood. Follow the scent of aromatic herbs to the small gardening shop filled with kitchen plants, urban gardening accoutrements, and a small kitchen counter from which they serve aromatic salads and slow food carpaccios.
Via Urbana 134
Rome, 00184
+39-06-488-1355
A small workshop on ritzy but discreet Via Margutta that sells customizable leather bags and accessories for men and women. The legendary heritage brand that was a favorite of the jetset in the 1960s has been recently revived and now produces classic and contemporary designs.
Via Margutta 11
Rome, 00187
+39-06-3212-0237
Culinary dreams come to life in this crammed shop that’s packed with every accouterment a home cook could want: rolling pins and cocottes, cookbooks and wooden spoons. The library/emporium is part of the larger ‘Gusto complex which includes a cheese shop, pizzeria, osteria, and café – to inspire your creations.
Piazza Augusto imperatore 7
Rome, 00186
+39-06-323-6363
Gorgeous vintage fabrics redone as beautiful, fashion-forward dresses. The designer draws inspiration from New York, Berlin, and Paris, bringing a globally-chic look to the Monti neighborhood.
Via del Boschetto 75
Rome, 00184
+39-06-487-0657
An awesome gastronomia full of local and imported Italian artisan products. They will vacuum-seal meats for a nominal fee if you want to take them out of the country. The sibling cafeteria Volpetti Piu around the corner serves good prepared foods, the best of which is pizza con patate (potatoes).
Via Marmorata 47
Rome, 00153
+39-06-574-2352