Order a few scoops of their artisan varieties and note how the fan-shaped business card folds nicely into a cone holder.

Stand at the polished bar or sit outside on the piazza of this elegant, century-old, family-run cafe. Save a few gold-wrapped chocolates for later. 

Accept no subsitutes — you absolutely must get to this gelateria. 

A great, affordable lunch spot. Order at least one crochetti di patatia, a cheese-laden knish. 

This place should be a top priority for lunch. When you order your Neapolitan pizza, ask for the "olio piccante" (spicy olive oil), and start with a salad and plate of grilled vegetables.

A grand meal in town. It ranks not only as one of the best in the city but also in the world. Chef Annie Féolde has maintained three Michelin stars for 15 years for her deft balancing of tradition and innovation. Just as impressive is the wine collection, a bewildering collection of French varietals. 

A neighborhood spot near Santa Maria Novella. The menu is short and simple: terrific pasta, and Florentine steak as good as it gets. They only do two seatings a night, but reservations are easily obtainable. 

A dark, romantic restaurant up in the hills, about a 15-minute cab ride from the city center. (They'll call a cab back for you, so there's no need to worry about the location.) There are rarely any tourists. The food is high quality, the prices reasonable, and the wine list truly wonderful. 

Classic Tuscan food. Simple. Delicious. What more do you need to know? Make time for a nice, big lunch there.

A design-driven restaurant frequented by the fashiony set. Regional cuisine pairs well with an impressive wine list. Get a table by the window overlooking the Arno.

The most famous example of Tuscan fine dining in the city. Expect a real culinary delight: wonderfully imaginative specialties made with local ingredients. The wine list is fantastic. Reservations are a must.

Our favorite gelateria has been run by a Florentine family for generations. After lunch at nearby trattoria Antico Noe, finish up with a creamy affogato.

A cozy, warm, and welcoming trattoria (popular with locals) that displays the latest seasonal bounty at the door. Instead of ordering off the menu, ask them to make you something with the specialties of the season.

Modern and fresh, with a library, roof terrace, and a sofa by the fireplace. JK Lounge is a fashionably relaxed place to see and be seen.

Overlooking the largest private garden in the city, the Oltrarno villa has seven soaring rooms filled with Italian design pieces from the '50s, '60s, and '70s.

On the other side of the Arno River, eleven meticulously designed rooms are decked with vintage furniture, industrial accents, and vaulted, frescoed ceilings. 

Anything but a par-for-the-course chain hotel, as it resides in a 500-year-old palazzo dressed to the nines. There’s an orangerie, private garden, and swimming pool. Book a table for a long and lazy brunch at Il Palagio.

Florentine tradition is preserved at this grand dame, a quick walk from the Basilica Santa Maria Novella. Twelve rooms face an interior courtyard filled with wisteria vines. All rooms have charming Italianate patios for enjoying an espresso and the morning paper.

A monastery-turned-luxury-hotel retreat in the hills of Fiesole, about a 15-minute drive from Florence (the hotel has a free shuttle bus going to and from the city). Even if you stay somewhere else, this place is absolutely worth visiting for a long, luxurious lunch or evening aperitivi overlooking the city.

Perhaps the chicest address in town, the boutique hotel is a breath of contemporary fresh air among Renaissance relics. It's located on Piazza della Repubblica, across the street from Cafe Gilli's gorgeous windows.

The small, modern hotel owned by Ferragamo has all white rooms with billowing curtains. Somewhat incredibly, it's built right next to the Ponte Vecchio, making it very easy to hop over to the cool part of town (south side of the river). Request a room overlooking the Arno. 

Custom shoes for gents! It takes several fittings, so invest the time at the beginning of your trip. Choose style, colors, materials, and fit. Shoes will be sent to you in six months — a real treat to see whenever you look down at your feet.

A local entrepreneur reopened the once-abandoned first floor of Mercato Centrale with high-end regional producers. Spring for a Neapolitan pie (or two) at Sud.

Peruse handmade table linens, elegant baby accessories, and locally crafted bow ties and handbags at this concept shop.

On a small street filled with artisanal studios and antique shops, you’ll find  this charming homegoods shop and calligraphy studio. 

Cruise this side street for excellent antiques, collectibles, vintage attire, consignment accessories, and Florentine fashion rarities. 

Master perfumer Sileno Cheloni creates bespoke and rare fragrances in a warm, library-like environment. Your friends will thank you for bars of tomato leaf soap.

One of the world's oldest pharmacies, and quite possibly the most breathtaking, it was founded in 1221 by Dominican friars looking to make herbal poultices and remedies for the monastery. The offerings — perfumes, talcums, soaps — are ornately packaged and, fittingly, heavenly scented.