Fathom Favorites : Jamaica

1. Pelican Bar

Close to Jake's Hotel on the south coast, there's a sand bank about a quarter mile out to sea — way off shore — where Floyd built a bar out of bamboo. Yes, in the middle of the ocean. It was totally washed away in a hurricane a few years ago, but he rebuilt it, and continued to do so each time. You stop in and join a game of dominoes, have a drink, or eat fresh fish caught and fried on the spot. It's a quirky destination and the owner is a real character. It's a pretty boat ride and any of the fishermen in Black River can take you there.


, St. Elizabeth

2. Niah's Patties

In a tiny shack along the seven-mile beach, Niah and his sister dole out flakey hand-made chicken, beef, and ackee with salt fish patties (Jamaican pastries in a buttery golden yellow shell resembling an empanada). Each patty is made fresh to order and cooked over a wood-burning stove.

Negril Beach
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3. Murphy's

A local beach hut gem with delicious made-to-order jerk chicken and a claim to the coldest Red Stripes. Time should not be of the essence here, patience should. It's a special experience.

Lighthouse Rd.
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4. Rockhouse Restaurant

The hotel's more upscale option for composed plates (like grilled jerk chicken fajitas). For breakfast, the only choice you should consider is the country's heavenly national dish, ackee and salt fish served with callaloo (Jamaica's version of kale), fried dumplings, plantains, and sweet banana bread. Fresh juices includes the signature Rockhouse greens blended with callaloo grown in their organic garden. 

Rockhouse Hotel, W. End Rd.
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5. Pushcart Restaurant & Rum Bar

There's a proper selection of rums (big ups to local hotelier Chris Blackwell's version) and live nightly music (reggae, dance hall).

Rockhouse Hotel, W. End Rd.
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6. Guilt

Chef and owner Colin Hylton does an amazing job putting a bold spin on authentic Jamaican dishes. The desserts are also spectacular, proof that Hylton got his start as a pastry chef. Devon House is also beautiful: Guests can dine on the lovely terrace or in the vault.

Devon House, 26 Hope Rd.
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7. Lobster Trapp

A great family-run spot just outside Montego Bay, where the lobster is cooked to order for ultimate freshness.

Sawyer's Beach Rd.
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8. Miss T's Kitchen

Jamaican classics (jerk chicken, calaloo, plantains) in a rustic garden setting about 20 minutes down the road from GoldenEye.

65 Main St.
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9. Strawberry Patch Cafe and Grill

Really wonderful fried chicken, and that's all there is to it.

Robin's Bay
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10. Chris' Cook Shop

It is a typical roadside restaurant: The menu might change and there are only a few options, but it is always delicious and a great thing to do when hanging out in Oracabessa.

Main St. (across from Maxine's Hot Spot)
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11. EITS Cafe

A fun little spot tucked away in the Blue Mountains where the view is incredible and the food is delicious. Almost everything is grown locally. Email reservations are preferred.

17 Mile Post on Newcastle Rd.
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12. Scotchies

You can't go wrong with jerk chicken in Jamaica, but Scotchie's has a great vibe. It's local but tourist-friendly. They slow cook under corrugated tin over pimento wood. And the sauce they use has an incredible kick. Ther are also locations in Ocho Rios and Kingston.

Falmouth Rd. on N. Coast Hwy. (across from Holiday Inn SunSpree)
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13. Peanut Soup

On the road from GoldenEye Hotel to Kingston is an incredible peanut soup stand on the left side, midway on Junction Road. There is no website or even an address, but you know it when you see it. Soup is an important part of Jamaican food culture, but this one always hits the spot. A welcome break on a long drive.

Junction Rd.
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14. Stush in the Bush

All ital (a Rastafarian diet that adheres to similar rules as vegetarianism) with homegrown produce. Sauces are incredible, especially the blow fyah pepper sauce.

Free Hill, Aterial Rd.
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15. Hungry Lion

Dinner at the Rastafarian restaurant is wonderful -- order the soup, which is complex, filling, and good for us. (How is that possible?) Follow with a nightcap at the club in the same building and take advantage of the free shuttle service pick-up.

W. End Rd.
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16. The Caves

A dozen colorful cliff-side accommodations jut over the turquoise sea. Cottages are bright and cheery with wicker furnishings. Amenities of note: a cliffside jacuzzi, salt water swimming pool, natural caves for exploring, and a candle lit rum bar built into a grotto.

144 One Love Dr.
Negril,

17. Kanopi House

A lush, quiet, ecofriendly resort of tree houses nestled among swaying palm trees in a secluded cove. Furnishings are West Indian elegant; there's an overwater spa; locally farmed menus cater to all dietary habits.

Blue Lagoon, San San
Portland,

18. Chippewa Village

Rustic with provisions. This is not a cookie-cutter resort. It's a well thought-out compound on the edge of the Great Morass (a protected marshland for exotic birds and royal palms) with five tin-roofed buildings. Book the rooms on the top floor of the larger houses for the best light. Sure, there's a little wear and tear, the kind that happens in a tropical environment, but the vaulted ceilings and charming makeshift kitchens make up for it. The owner, John Babcock, has the answer to almost everything and will be able to give guests instant local access.
Read more on Fathom: Jamaica's Coolest Joint

Norman Manley Blvd.
Negril,

19. Jamaica Inn

One of those marvelous old-school Caribbean resorts that celebrities have been flocking to since the '50s. Suites are all about outdoor space with sprawling living room-like verandas. The resort menu is packed with excellent Jamaican favorites. Paddle boarding, kayaking, yoga, and playing croquet with a staff member is as active as it gets here. And that's perfectly fine.

P.O. Box 1, Main St.
Ocho Rios, St. Ann

20. GoldenEye

Originally the private retreat of Ian Fleming (it's where he wrote all his James Bond novels). A lush and fragrant jungle setting, you'd have to be a rock not to feel the romance of this sexy place. Prepare for midnight swims in the calm, warm lagoon. Pack a white bikini for full effect.

Oracabessa Bay
Oracabessa, St. Mary

21. Rockhouse Hotel

Thirty four studios, bungalows, and villas are woven along a pristine, dramatic cluster of rocky cliffs set on sparkling blue-on-blue Caribbean waters. The local staff is professional, hospitable, and charming. The hip crowd is decidedly unhurried and fantastically laid back, and the vibes lean uniformly harmonious. 
Read more on Fathom: Everything's Irie at Rockhouse, Jamaica's Best Boho Hotel

W. End Rd.
Negril,

22. Gallery of West Indian Art

This 50-year-old shop, in a residential neighborhood, sells handmade pottery, paintings, and wood carvings from well-known artists and up-and-comers from Haiti, Cuba, and Jamaica.  

11 Fairfield Rd.
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23. Randy's

Opened by Vincent Chin in the 1950s, the shop is still run by his son Carl, whose brother, Clive, runs New York's mighty VP Records. At around 300-400 J a piece, even if you just give Carl $20 USD and have him pick stuff out you like, you'll have genuine platelets from the heart of the world's favorite weed-smoking music. The Kingston shop is essentially a driftnet for the island’s unwanted vinyl, so the 45s can range from roots and rockers to dancehall and digital oddities. If the Bob Marley Museum is essentially the Graceland of Reggae, then Randy's is the shotgun shack in Tupelo, Mississippi.

Read more on Fathom: Reggae Tones in Jamaica

17 N. Parade
Kington,