The payoff for walking down this dark alley is international impresario Andre Savaira's Parisian import which often plays host to magazine parties and launch events. Give the calendar a glance before heading over to avoid being shut out. As to be expected, sharp dressers have a good shot at getting in the door.
3 Chome 8-40 Minami-Aoyama
Minato-ku, Tokyo, 107-0062
Just south of Meiji Shrine, indie labels and cafes are flocking to this small residential neighborhood. After a morning run in Yoyogi Park, refuel at Little Nap Coffee. Pick your lunch from a Japanese-only picture menu at Levain (2-43-13 Tomigaya; +81-3-3468-9669), a tiny cafe and bakery with really good bread. Browse zines and art books at Shibuya Publishing Booksellers and do pre-dinner drinks at the Nordic cafe/bar Fuglen.
Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, 151-0063
Especially beautiful during cherry blossom season, particularly around Shinobazu Pond where local families enjoy a hanami picnic. Around the same time is also the peony festival at Toshogu Shrine. The sprawling public park is also home to five museums and Japan's oldest zoo.
５-20 Uenokoen
Taito, Tokyo, 110-0007
Flashing screens everywhere, promo girls, lots and lots of vending machines. If you were looking for overwhelming, sensory-overload Tokyo, this is it. The massive wholesale electronic district is packed with widgets and gadgets of the next century, otaku spots filled with anime and manga goods, and arcades for all types — there's one dedicated entirely to stuffed animal machines.
Taito-ku, Tokyo , 110-0006
While you can't actually step into the palace (the primary residences of the Imperial Family), the spacious grounds are a beautiful way to start the day. Go for an early morning jaunt in the East Garden and wave to locals jogging.
1-1 Chiyoda
Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, 100-8111
For a change of pace, the Daikanyama neighborhood in Shibuya feels distinctively French and is filled with a mix of restaurants, indie and international labels, and some of Tokyo's best dressed. After shopping at Tenoha and T-Site, do a rooftop dinner at King George or drinks at Spring Valley Brewery.
Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, 150-0034
Right in front of Shibuya station's Hachiko exit is one of the most, if not the busiest street crossings in the world. Stake out a much-coveted window seat at the second-floor Starbucks on the North side to watch the scramble when all lights turn red, or experience the ordered chaos from the middle of the intersection. Come back again at night to when the streets are lit up by the neon signs above.
2-2 Dogenzaka
Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, 150-0002
To see where trends are born, brace yourself and head to Ichi-Maru-Kyu. Just over 100 trendy brands fill ten stories — each with its own team of sales girls fully committed to a head-to-toe look (think back-up dancer, country romantic, mountaineer). All compete for the attention of thousands of high schoolers who come for the fashion frenzy each day.
2-29-1 Sakamoto
Tokyo, Shibuya-ku 150-0043
The stuff of legends. Wake before the sun comes up to see chefs from near and far bid on the catch of the day followed by a fresh fish feast for breakfast. Only 120 people are let in each morning. If you make the trip but miss the cut-off, wait on line at the perpetually mobbed Sushi Dai or Daiwa-Zushi, both in row six inside the open-air wholesale market. The landmark is moving to larger digs (to make way for the Olympics) in November, so be sure to check the new address.
The antidote for the sensory overload brought on by smokey pachinko parlors and cheesecake crepe-wielding kawaii girls: a visit to the century-old, 175-acre Shinto shrine in the heart of the city. Breathe in 365 varieties of evergreen trees before diving back into the urban jungle for more.
1-1 Yoyogi-Kamizono-cho
Tokyo, Shibuya-ku 151-8857