The best way to start the meal, or to continue the appetizers, depending the order of your courses, is with several platters of fresh seafood. There's a great old guy, a real salt-of-the-sea figure, who walks around Lo Scoglio in a Speedo carrying a spear and a netted bag. He's got to be in his 70s. He's the urchin man, and it's not uncommon to find him hoisting himself up onto the deck around noon (with a lot more grace than "hoist" would imply) with the morning's haul collected from the surounding waters, ready to serve throughout the day.