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A Few Days In

Búzios Is The Hamptons' Sexy Brazilian Twin

by Sarah Khan

Búzios Is The Hamptons' Sexy Brazilian Twin
Sunset at the Cachoeira Inn. All photos by Sarah Khan.

Pack your beach bag (and make sure it's Prada) — Búzios, Brazil, delivers all the booze, beaches, and glamour of our favorite New York getaway (The Hamptons, of course), only with sexy Brazilian royalty and a South American flair. When can we book a flight? Travel blogger Sarah Khan tells us how to get around.

BUZIOS, Brazil – When Brigitte Bardot escaped to the humble fishing village of Armaçao dos Búzios with her Brazilian boyfriend in the 1960s, a booming resort town was born. These days, the tiny peninsula has become Brazil's St. Tropez — The Hamptons to Rio's Manhattan — a playground for the rich and sexy who converge on its 23 photogenic beaches and countless posh restaurants and clubs.

You can make what you will of a Búzios break: Surf all day and dance all night, or eat, shop, and repeat (for the less active types). On holidays and long weekends, you'll be jostling for tables with chic Cariocas descending in droves from Rio de Janeiro, 100 miles to the west. But if you arrive on a quiet (but still warm and sunny) winter weekend like I did, you'll feel as though you've pulled a Bardot yourself and stumbled upon a beautiful little secret.


Praia Azeda

The descent to beachside heaven at Praia Azeda.

Praia Geriba

I came, I saw, I wrote my name in the sand at Praia Geriba.

WHAT TO DO

Buzios is all about the beaches, and you could easily spend your whole trip hopping from one praia to another, each with its own distinct vibe.

Trendy Geribá is great for a surfing lesson, Tartaruga is lined with a riot of colorful beach shacks that promise to ply you with a steady supply of caipirinhas, Orla Bardot has a lovely promenade for a leisurely stroll (don't miss a photo op with a statue of Brigitte), Porto da Barra is known for its clutch of buzzy waterfront restaurants, and pretty Praia Azeda, tucked away in a cove at the foot of a cliff, has serene waters and can be nice and quiet if it's not a busy holiday weekend.

When you're ready for action, head for the main drag of Rua das Pedras. The hefty stones that make up the street require a massive amount of effort to navigate if you want to avoid twisting your ankle. Pack your Havainas: This is not a heels kind of town. But it's worth the trek — the street is teeming with boutiques open late into the night as well as hot restaurants and clubs.

Privilege nightclub gets going around 3 a.m. and doesn't shut down until nine in the morning. The lively, open-air crepe shop and bar Chez Michou, a Búzios institution for 30 years, is a great place to watch a soccer match among enthusiastic (read: fanatically passionate) patrons.


Praia da Tartaruga restaurant

A Brazilian feast at Praia da Tartaruga restaurant.

Bar do Ze

Classy clientele at Bar do Zé.

WHERE TO EAT

Fishbone, a sprawling beach bar on Praia de Geribá, is the place to see, be seen, and dance during the day. Rehydrate with an antioxidant-rich açai juice that's so thick you'll need a spoon to finish it off.

Walk past the long row of quiosques on Praia da Tartaruga and head for the namesake restaurant on its far end for a hearty moqueca (fish stew) and pastel camaraõ (shrimp pastry). A daybed under the shade of a massive almond tree is a great spot for a sundowner.

For a beachside ode to gastronomy, opt for the refined menu at Rocka Beach Lounge on Praia Brava — get octopus carpaccio and passionfruit ice cream in custard.

If Buzios is the Hamptons of Brazil, Bar do Zé is its Nick & Toni's: a chic bistro with a high celeb-to-civilian ratio. Play it safe with shrimp and mushroom risotto or get adventurous with sea bass cooked with banana. Either way, you can't go wrong.


Cachoeira Inn

Beachside bliss at Cachoeira Inn.

WHERE TO STAY

Cachoeira means waterfall in Portuguese, and I counted at least five secreted away at Cachoeira Inn, a lovely hillside retreat perched high above Ferradura Bay. Vivacious American owners Matt and Susan Marshall have injected the four-suite property with plenty of Asian flair courtesy their stints in Thailand, China, and Indonesia. That's why you'll find yourself swimming in the pool under the watchful gaze of a Buddha statue. A lavish breakfast spread of fresh jams, juices, pão de queijo (cheese bread), and eggs made to order is almost as sublime as the panoramic views from the dining room.


PLAN YOUR TRIP

How to Get There

Armaçao dos Búzios is an easy two-and-a-half-hour drive east of Rio de Janeiro.

When to Go

With consistent warm temperatures and more than 250 sunny days a year, Buzios has beach-worthy weather year-round.

MAP IT


See all the locations mentioned in this story. (Google Maps)

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

Paraty, You Had Me Even in the Rain
Highs and Lows, Skies and Surf in Rio
Fathom's Rio de Janeiro Guide

Sarah is a Cape Town-based travel writer who blogs as The South AfriKhan. You can follow her on Twitter and instagram @BySarahKhan. She travels for the global junk food and the hotel pens.

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